These are unusual times, and the state of affairs can change quickly. Please check the latest travel guidance before making your journey. Note that our writer visited pre-pandemic.
More insider guides for planning a trip to San Sebastián
Posing gracefully between sea and mountains, San Sebastián’s beauty is enthralling; staring at (and photographing) it is a favourite pastime. While most come to eat, the city has been attracting visitors since long before the gastronomic boom, and it boasts plenty of non-foodie activities.
Whether nature or culture is your preferred way to while away a holiday, in San Sebastián they collide. Climb the three mountains by foot or funicular, visit retro theme parks, or take a boat out to the island for a new view of the spectacular bay.
Journey to a beautiful island
The Isla de Santa Clara is one of the most photographed islands in the world, but few visitors actually step foot on it. The island has long been a catch-all; it was even used to quarantine those with the plague centuries ago. Nowadays, it is home to a lighthouse, stone tables that seem to pop up out of nowhere, ideal for a picnic, and a full-service bar with tables in the sun – not to mention amazing views of the city.
Insider tip: The common way to arrive is by boat, which sails regularly in summer season. The even cooler way to arrive is in a rented kayak (try Alokayak), paddling up and enjoying the island on your own time.
Opening times: June 1 – September 30; boat from 10am to 8pm, every 30 minutes
Indulge in some retail therapy
As its regal architecture and ritzy inhabitants suggest, San Sebastián is a moneyed town. Blocks of independent shops of all types stretch the imagination (and the wallet). Head to Minük and Labui for women’s clothes, inma_lo for shoes, and Loreak Mendian for Basque-influenced clothing. Unique homeware can be found at Valentina, and stationary shop Tamayo is a classic spot for getting lost among shelves of tempting goods.
Insider tip: Unassuming storefronts might hide great finds, such as The Loft, an eclectic shop that stocks furniture by designer Bois et Fer. And a bit off the beaten path you’ll find the one of the best independent perfume shops in Spain, Hunky Dory.
Head to the beach and catch some waves
Of San Sebastián’s three beaches, the Zurriola attracts the young, surfing crowd. Several surf schools line the beach, renting equipment and offering lessons, but Pukas is the most established. Jump atop a foam board if you’re beginning, or a short, handcrafted Pukas surfboard if you’re already confident, and surf the lefthander that peels off towards the pier or the Monpas righthander.
Insider tip: In summer months, the beach can get very crowded. Apart from convenience and educational factor, having an instructor also helps you claim wave real estate more comfortably.
Contact: 00 34 943 320 068; pukassurf.com
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm; Sat, 9am-2.30pm, 4pm-8pm; Sun, 10am-2.30pm
Price: From £59 for group lessons and £93 for one-on-one lessons
Tuck into the city’s gastronomic culture
Sociedades, or txokos, stand tall as the pillars of Basque eating culture. These members-only spaces are outfitted with professional cooking equipment, dry storage and lots of wine – everything one needs for a long meal of classic Basque cuisine, made by and enjoyed among friends. These clubs are rarely open to the public, so snag entry with a member (some tour groups offer the experience on a private basis).
Insider tip: The other option is to visit on San Sebastián Day, January 20, when some of the Old Town’s most famous societies open their doors to the public – a wilder atmosphere, yes, but a glance at the hallowed halls.
Contact: 00 34 676 87 67 04; sansebastianpintxos.com
Get a mountaintop view of the city
Ascending this ancient lookout spot is one of the city’s great pre- or post-prandial joys. Monte Urgull towers over the Old Town, and it played an important role in San Sebastián’s history. Enjoy the views, the hidden bar on the west side, or the scattering of landmarks (stone remains of a castle, a fort, and even a cemetery that pays homage to English soldiers).
Insider tip: The giant statue of Jesus Christ atop the mountain isn’t just for show – it happens to hold a fun (and free) museum with a multimedia look at San Sebastián, past, present and future.
Opening times: May-Sep, 8am-9pm; Oct-Apr, 8am-7:30pm
Drum the night away for the Feast of San Sebastián
The evening before January 20, all locals prepare for Tamborrada, the biggest day of the year, gathering in the Plaza de la Constitucion with drums at the ready for the stroke of midnight. San Sebastián Day has been celebrated with tamborradas, or drumming groups, since 1871, and since then the festival has grown to immense proportions.
Insider tip: Don’t miss the emotional izada (flag raising) at midnight, and follow along as dozens of groups dressed as cooks and soldiers march around the Old Town. This is also the only day of the year that you can slip into one of the city’s dining society.
Opening times: January 20
Take in some culture at the Tobacco Factory
An amble through this immense building, a former cigarette factory that towers over the Urumea River, reveals the beating cultural heart of the city. The Tabakalera holds five floors of exhibition space, media labs, a creation library, and plenty of extra nooks. There’s an artsy shop (Arteuparte) on the ground floor alongside a highly curated bookshop (Tobacco Days), as well as a food court with some fabulous pizzas and coffee.
Insider tip: Be sure to make it to the very top floor – an unadvertised but spectacular glass prism with an outdoor terrace. The view of the city is breathtaking.
Contact: 00 34 943 118 855; tabakalera.eu
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 9am-9pm; Fri, 9am-10pm; Sat, 10am-10pm; Sun, 10am-9pm
Release your inner child at a retro theme park
One of the oldest attractions in San Sebastián, the Monte Igueldo Amusement Park also happens to be one of the most magical. Inaugurated in 1912, it sits on an incredible overlook, the best spot in town for breathtaking photos. The real charm, however, lies in the park’s retro – and exceptionally well-priced – rides.
Insider tip: Be sure to take a turn on the Swiss Mountain, a vintage rollercoaster that incites heart palpitations as much for its age as for its precarious perch over the sea.
Contact: 00 34 943 213 525; monteigueldo.es
Opening times: Mid-June through the first week in September, open daily: Mon-Fri, 11.30am-2pm; Sat-Sun, 11am-8.30pm. Second week in September through mid-June, open weekends: Sat-Sun, 11am-2pm, 3.30pm-8pm
Price: Funicular from £1.30, Rides from £1
Get to the source of the Basque cider industry
An experience, not a restaurant – Basque cider houses are some of the most curious productions of the local countryside. Arrive at the expansive country homes, nearly all of which are still owned by single family, where cider has been crafted for centuries. Drink cider from the barrels and dine family-style on salt cod and steak, course after course, experiencing a real Basque tradition.
Insider tip: ‘Gutxi eta maiz’ is the expert’s technique. In Basque it means “a little bit and often”, and it’s the way to drink so that your cider is always cold and your night always lively.
Contact: 00 34 943 330 033; zapiain.eus
Opening times: Mon-Sat, 8pm–11pm; Sat, 1pm-4pm
Tour an art-filled townhouse
Eduardo Chillida, with his thrillingly Basque sensibility, is San Sebastián’s favoured artist. He is famous for his geometric sculptural pieces, made with rock, iron and other elemental materials. His recently re-opened museum outside of the city limits, Chillida Leku, exhibits the artist’s work as he intended, in a Basque farmhouse environment, stark against rolling green hills and distant mountains.
Insider tip: If you can’t make it out to the countryside, at least marvel at Chillida’s famous curved iron structures that branch out from the rocks at the end of Ondarreta beach, combing the wind as it whips from the ocean into the city.
Contact: 00 34 943 33 59 63; museochillidaleku.com
Opening times: March, Wed-Mon, 10am-7pm; Apr-Sep, Wed-Mon, 10am-8pm; Nov-Feb, Wed-Mon, 10am-6pm; October, Wed-Mon, 10am-7pm; closed Tuesday year-round